The Spine of Missouri—SR 19 in Mark Twain National Forest

You’ve ridden on the backs of dragons and demons but how about an entire state? That’s what you can do on SR 19, also called the Spine of Missouri.

Well, I know at least one rider who has called it that. It’s a good and appropriate name, though, so I’m sticking with it.

SR 19 spans roughly 260 miles north-south from New London to Thayer on the Missouri-Arkansas border. Today, however, we’ll focus on its pre-1922 route that terminated in Cuba (not the island).

This 140-mile stretch of two-lane asphalt slithers through the western reaches of Mark Twain National Forest. It’s an exquisite ride in the Ozarks that thrills veteran bikers with plentiful twists while being easy enough that a novice can complete it without difficulty.

Between Cuba and Salem, SR 19 provides a calm, relaxed cruise down a rural two-laner. You’ll progress from town through beautiful Missouri farmland until trees begin to encroach on the sides of the road while you roll over gently undulating hills.

Yet, the best part of SR 19 is the 55-mile section between Salem and Winona. If you’re strapped for time and can only ride one short section of SR 19, make it this one.

In this forested section, the curves and elevation changes really kick in. The turns aren’t that tight, but they’re long and come in rapid succession with one leading seamlessly into another.

With a speed limit of 55 mph, you’ll have time to take in the beautiful nature around you, together with the unpainted houses, old pickups, and leaning sheds. It might not be fancy, but it’s a calm and friendly part of the U.S.