Kernville, California Dual Sport Shamrock Tour®
Southern California’s Kernville is a four-season tourist town nestled between the southern end of the Sierra Nevada and the north shore of Lake Isabella, one of the state’s largest man-made reservoirs. A destination for white water rafting, boating, fly-fishing, mountain biking, hiking, and other outdoor activities, the town’s population of 1,600 souls multiplies dramatically on busy summer weekends. Accordingly, the Old West-themed town features gold rush-era architecture, a panoply of lodging and dining options, and a couple of full-service shops that sell everything from snowshoes to sunscreen to lead sinkers.
Kernville has an odd history. Named after Edward Kern, who mapped the area in 1845 with John C. Fremont, it later gained the moniker of Whiskey Flat after a saloon opened after a gold strike. Later on, the town was renamed Kernville, but it was destroyed by the flooding that created Lake Isabella in 1845. Some of the original town’s extant buildings can still be seen at the bottom of the lake when the water level is low.
The surrounding geography is laced with paved and unpaved roads that run from low sandy desert terrain up into dense mountain pine forests. Due north is the gateway to Sequoia National Forest, while in the east waits the barren expanse of the Mojave Desert.
The routes of this Shamrock Tour® are designed as dual sport or ADV rides. Most involve some off-pavement riding, but will present no special challenge to riders with some off-road experience. If you’re keen to avoid dirt, you can stick to the tarmac, though, and have a splendid time. Many of these roads are seasonal, and can be closed as early as October or November and open as late as May or June.
High Peaks and Passes
Burlando Rd leads south out of town, turning into SR 155 as it skirts the western edge of Lake Isabella. Exit and head for SR 178 north. There are magnificent views of the lake from the eastern side and multiple entry points for swimmers and boaters. Past the lake, I usually stop at the historical Onyx Store to sample its variety of vintage sodas and candies. Sadly, the store has closed recently and its future is uncertain.
Motorcycle & Gear
2023 BMW R 1250 GS
Helmet: Bell MX-9 Adventure
Jacket: Aether Mulholland
Pants: Alpinestars Venture XT
Boots: REV’IT Expedition GTX
Gloves: BMW Tenda 2-in-1 GTX
Luggage: Giant Loop MotoTrekk Panniers
Not far past the store, look for Chimney Peak Rd. This gravel road provides 15 miles of fun as you climb until it meets the paved Sherman Pass Rd. Head left to the tiny “town” of Kennedy Meadows, which principally consists of a gas station and general store. This is a major way station for backpackers making their way up the Pacific Crest Trail, a hiking superhighway that runs from the California border with Mexico to the Washington state border with Canada.
The ride west from Kennedy Meadows is one of the most spectacular in California. After hitting an elevation of 9,200 feet, Sherman Pass Rd hairpins downhill and ends at Mountain Hwy 99 on the banks of the Kern River, mellow in winter and spring, mighty in summer and fall. Follow this back to town.